Knitting Math

Math, vintage knitting, research, fun!



  • Is this vintage knitting pattern public domain??

    This is something I have frequently searched, and the answers have basically non-existent. So I thought I would walk you through my research process. I am not a lawyer! I am a librarian, nerd, and knitter. This also applies to US copyright only. And it’s hard! Tracking down the copyright for a book, especially when you don’t know the registration number, is very difficult but not impossible.

    US copyright law is pretty intense, but for this I am just focusing on patterns published prior to 1963. Why you ask? Books published 1930 or earlier are definitely in the public domain. Every year from now until 2073, books will automatically enter the public domain 95 years after publication.

    But there is a gap between 1930 and 1963. Books published prior to 1978 had a copyright term of 28 years, then they had to be renewed if they wanted to keep the copyright for an additional 28 years. If they didn’t, they fell into the public domain. Congress passed legislation for all books published on or after January 1, 1978 that did away with renewal and lengthened the copyright term to 75 years. In 1992 they retroactively did away with the need for renewal for any book published on or after January 1, 1964. So those gap years fall into a nebulous zone where in order to keep the copyright you had to renew it 28 years after the initial publication date and within one calendar year of that anniversary.

    Lets follow this research process for one of my knitting books: Jack Frost Blouse Book Volume 43.

    All books published prior to February 28, 1989 were required to include a copyright notice. In this book it’s on the inside cover:

    That is sufficient to have a copyright claim. You didn’t have to register the copyright with the US Copyright Office, but many did. I looked up the original copyright in the US Copyright public records system:

    (United States Copyright Office, n.d.-c)

    As a fun aside, this copyright registration reveals the author (or possibly editor) of the book to be Theresa Lacey. As I wrote with Audrea of Hollywood, knowing the people behind the patterns in this era is exceedingly rare. Of course, she wasn’t credited in the booklet, but I like knowing her name now.

    The original card above is their application, but it does have the copyright class (AA) and number (487259). The card is just the app, but this image below is the actual entry in the copyright record book:

    (United States Copyright Office, n.d.-b, p. 266)

    If you don’t have the registration number, finding the actual registration is a nightmare. Right now I am researching a few books published in 1948. There are 76 volumes of these copyright registrations, each with about 1,000 pages, that are organized by registration number not registrant or title. Thankfully, there is an index, but that can be kind of hit and miss in terms of searchability. Research is so fun, right?

    Anyways, the application and registration record say it was first published on July 3, 1945, so the copyright would be valid until 1973. There are many ways to check if they renewed the copyright. UPenn has digitized copyright registration and renewals records, searchable by year. Project Gutenberg has a searchable file of copyright renewals 1950-1977. Stanford has a searchable database of all copyright renewals from 1926-1963, specifically for people searching for Class A copyright information for that window of time.

    What if they renewed the copyright? Well since the work was published in 1945, it could have been renewed in 1973 or 1974 (within the one-year window). Even so, I check the year before, the year, and the year after just to be safe! Plus I searched the Stanford index and and Project Gutenberg to be thorough. I found their new copyright registrations, but no renewals. Hooray! It’s public domain!

    So why didn’t they renew the copyright?

    In 1973 there were 23,071 renewals for all classes and in 1974 there were 25,464—both up from previous years, and there is an interesting bit in the renewal section of the 1974 annual copyright report about a 1973 lawsuit concerning the ownership of Superman (77th Annual Report, 1975).

    I think it makes total sense that they wouldn’t renew the copyright. These days, patterns are a designer’s stock-in-trade. They showcase their creativity, writing skills, and ingenuity. Historically patterns were primarily published as a way to sell yarn. Every vintage pattern book I can think of was published by a yarn company. Additionally, the patterns needed to be renewed in the 1970s. While it’s possible they might have taken some fashion inspiration from the 1940s, it was a very different cultural period. If these yarn manufacturers were looking to sell yarn, they needed current designs with their current yarn lines.

    Another consideration is cost. To register the book initially, you can see on the application that they paid a $2 fee (just north of $36 in 2026 dollars), and the 1974 annual copyright report renewals were $4 (or $26-ish in 2026 dollars). If a company was publishing a lot of books, I could see the price of original copyrights ($6 per registration) and renewals adding up. Maybe? I really don’t think cost was the major issue.

    Overall, very far fewer AA copyrights were renewed than A copyrights. Class A was for more traditional books, and class AA was for “pamphlets, small books, leaflets, etc.” United States Copyright Office (n.d.). It was established in 1909 and was discontinued in 1952. These just weren’t seen as worth preserving in the same way as traditional print books. One series whose copyright was renewed is Vogue Knitting by Ruth Seder Cooke with the copyright held by Condé Nast. Good for them! Those are great books and they must have seen the potential in a library of patterns. Additionally, the creation of the patterns was likely seen as “for hire” work (as with the original creators of Superman) so the people (women, usually) who wrote the patterns had no claim to the work.

    Great! It’s public domain. Now what?

    Well, you can do whatever you want with it! Whenever I buy a vintage pattern book, the first thing I do is scan it. I know I am too clumsy to be trusted with a fragile paper pattern, and it is far easier for me to read and reference a digital copy. I, for one, like to share things, hence this now available on Stitch Book and the Internet Archive. I have added a page with my Free Knitting Books for you to peruse as well. I hope you enjoy!


    Click for references
  • Audrea of Hollywood

    Introduction to a legend

    This will likely be the first in a series because I am really deeply enjoying researching this incredible designer.

    I first encountered this designer in Minerva vol. 76, Fashions in Hand Knits. I was adding patterns to the Ravelry database, as one does, when I came across something odd. Attribution.

    Modern patterns almost always have an author. People love credit! But in vintage knitting and crochet patterns, there was rarely any name associated with designing the patterns. They are always simply credited to the publisher or yarn manufacturer.

    There were three of her designs in that book: the V-Line Spectator two-piece dress, Southern Holiday two-piece dress, and the Day and Night one-piece dress. Disregarding that a two piece dress is just a skirt and a top, my interest was piqued.

    The three Audrea of Hollywood designs from Minerva volume 76, published in 1948.

    I searched on Ravelry for other patterns by her and came across just two more: Criss-Cross dress appearing in Columbia vol. 112 and Fern Fantasy appearing in Minerva vol. 73. Beyond that, there wasn’t a ton to go on. Unlike modern recipes and patterns where the author natters on for paragraphs, in the books themselves there was no information about Audrea or any other contributor to pattern design. I just did a general search (Duck Duck Go, because it lets me opt out of AI bless them) and found this blog post from 2007 where the author was clearly looking through and photographing their personal print copy of Minerva vol. 73 and commenting on some of the fun designs.

    Of the Fern Fantasy, they wrote:

    This outfit was supposed to be special because it was designed by a Hollywood designer, Audrea of Hollywood, who I have never heard of but will look up later.

    I would imagine it was a difficult search in 2007. But what was even more interesting was this comment left on the post:

    theresa said…
    Audrea of California is my step-grandmother. She had a yarn shop on Rodeo Drive in the 30s & 40s and designed knits for Joan Crawford, Paul Newman, and other big names of the time. Beautiful stuff! I hope I can find the pattern book you have b/c I don’t have many of her patterns.
    October 15, 2008 at 8:49 AM

    Another clue! I know from doing local history research that one of the best places to start a search is a city directory or phone book. I didn’t find anything looking through Los Angeles phone books, then it hit me: Rodeo Dr. is in LA county, but it’s in the city of Beverly Hills! It’s own municipality with its own directories, many of which the Library of Congress has digitized! Since the commenter mentioned the 30s, I started with 1934-1940. I looked in two ways: in the beginning section with everything listed alphabetically, and browsing the category listings. Since she was a knitwear designer, I searched through the listings for clothing designers, women’s clothing retailers, and yarn sellers.

    Eventually I found her in the July 1938 telephone book!

    The store is listed as “Audrea Importer” and at that time she was located at 208 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills. They are listed there through at least October 1940. The collection is missing 1941-1942 directories so I don’t know when she moved but in 1943 the store is listed at it’s 270 N. Rodeo Dr. location!

    She at that location at least until 1945. In the 1948 directory she’s listed back on Beverly Dr. but at 169 S. Beverly Dr. In 1955 the store is at 9555 Wilsire Blvd. The next available telephone book is 1959, and the store is now listed at 9542 Santa Monica Blvd. but there was also this lovely ad in the “Knitting Instruction” section:

    Individual designing! I think it would be incredible to go into a yarn store and have something custom knit for me. My colors, my body, my style! I particularly like that it lists dyeing as a specialty as this was still very much a “dyed to match” era. The one thing I think is odd is the name of the business, because “Audrea Importer” does not exactly scream yarn and custom knitwear design. Obviously SEO didn’t exist but I would have thought indicating your type of business was good practice no matter the era. The last available phone book is from 1963 when she ran a similar ad and was still at the same address.

    This is the TIP of my research iceberg. I have looked at microfilm, I have been searching through online periodicals archives, I am contacting historical societies! This is just an introduction to Audrea and there will certainly be more. I have purchased a bunch of knitting books and I am having an absolute blast tracking down these patterns and information about Audrea herself.

    To get your Audrea of Hollywood start, I recommend downloading Minerva volume 76, Fashions in Hand Knits from Stitch Book. That book has three of her patterns but also some other really incredible 1948 looks.

    Stay tuned!


    Click for references
Is this your new site? Log in to activate admin features and dismiss this message
Log In